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The (New) Atomic Age: Atomic Liquors Booms Again

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photobyCurtis Joe WalkerEverything old is new again at Atomic Liquors, where the legendary lounge’s new owners recently marked its grand re-opening with—what else?—a touch of pyrotechnics. Yes, instead of a standard issue ribbon cutting, local filmmaker Derek Stonebarger (one of three partners in the establishment) chose to memorialize the landmark’s resurrection with somethinslightly more spectacular—not to mention volatile: a ribbon torching.

But save the Cold War Era cracks, hard as they may be to resist. Despite being rife for the retro ribbing, Atomic Liquors is as earnest a labor of love as they get. “It’s great that we found this historic gem that was owned by one couple, Joe and Stella Sobchick, for nearly 60 years…since nothing was really changed,” explains Stonebarger. “On the flipside, it was very difficult to bring a building [like that] up to code. It’s been more work then I ever imagined [and] cost twice as much as we expected. . .But we did it, and it will be here forever. I’m very proud of what we have accomplished.”

Located just a few short blocks east of the historic El Cortez Hotel, Atomic Liquors is itself a storied remnant of Vegas Past. Founded by husband and wife entrepreneurs, Joe and Stella Sobchik, in 1952, it’s not just the oldest freestanding bar in Las Vegas, but also the first to sell package liquor and over-the bar-pours (earning the city’s first modern tavern license) and the first to cater to the city’s ‘after hours’ crowd, staying open late to serve entertainers, casino staffers, and locals alike.

Over the years, Atomic Liquors has played to host to, well, a host of Las Vegas (and Hollywood) luminaries. From the Rat Pack to the Smothers Brothers, countless entertainers have made it their home away from home, drinking at the Atomic after their nightly shows. Barbra Streisand even had her own seat, which has been lovingly restored and is currently on display for a new generation of regulars.

“It’s pretty much the coolest bar ever,” says Stonebarger, barely containing his reverence. “There’s just so much history; Casino, The Hangover, The Gauntlet, The Twilight Zone, and more were all filmed here.” Of course, Atomic Liquors was a blast (sorry, couldn’t resist) long before Scorcese, Streisand, or even Sinatra ever set foot in the Fremont Street saloon.

Originally built in 1945, when it was known as Virginia’s Café, the story goes that second owner Joe grew tired of cooking for his customers, who were infinitely more excited about sipping “Atomic cocktails” while watching nuclear detonations at the too-close-for-comfort Nevada Test Site from the restaurant’s roof. (Yes, at the height of the Cold War, Las Vegas locals and tourists alike gathered to ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ while the military detonated nuclear weaponry in the nearby desert. But don’t worry, most of them were wearing sunglasses. Safety first.)

Sensing the opportunity to simplify their business plan—not to mention cash in on the ‘Atomic tourism’ craze sweeping the nation—the Sobchiks promptly constructed a mammoth, wraparound bar; commissioned one of the era’s finest examples of roadside neon; and rechristened their business “Atomic Liquors.” The rest, as they say, is history: American history, atomic history, film history, and of course, Las Vegas history.

Cut to 2012, when a group of investors led by local attorney Lance Johns and
filmmaker/entrepreneur Derek Stonebarger moved to purchase the bar from the Sobchik’s son, in hopes of returning the languishing landmark to its former glory.
Asked if they were at all concerned about investing in an area of the city that residents and nearby neighbors politely refer to as “up and coming,” Stonebarger was quick to put the risk in perspective: “I remember meeting with Lance at the property when we first started putting the deal together and thinking, ‘Will people (locals) realize how cool, and centrally located this property is? Is it really as important of a piece of Las Vegas atomic, film, and bar history as we think it is?’ And we realized it was.”

No stranger to putting his money where his mouth is, Stonebarger, a longtime Downtown resident heavily involved with the local arts and cultural community, called in the big guns—and made them an offer (he hoped) they couldn’t refuse. “Basically, I called [the National Atomic Testing Museum] and asked if they’d be interested in a partnership. I explained how cool the bar was, and told them if we could work a deal, we’d give them an official drink and donate a portion of the proceeds to their organization.”

What the Emmy Award-winning TV and film producer neglected to mention was the nature—and
name—of the drink in question. “When I told them that their official drink would be the ‘F-BOMB,’ they were a little hesitant,” he explains. “It took some coaxing, and I explained how marketable I thought the name was, and after a taste test, they were in.”

In exchange for the ongoing proceeds from Atomic F-BOMBs (a combustible concoction of Fireball Cinnamon Whisky, Fernet Branca, and Atomic Energy Drink), the National Atomic Testing Museumagreed to loan the fledgling “bar-seum” a handful of items, including vintage geiger counters and other artifacts reflective of the era. Proudly displayed alongside relics from the bar’s own rich past, these objects are best enjoyed leisurely—ideally, over one of bar manager Rose Signor’s seasonalcocktails (or Atomic’s 20 select micro/craft brews), honoring past and present alike. “We have a cocktail made with Old Crow, an Atomic Liquors staple, and Hunter S. Thompson’s favorite alcoholic beverage,” Stonebarger continues. “We even have Busch on tap for just $3/16 oz. glass. . .Atomic Liquors was the top seller of Busch in the state of Nevada for many years. Not wanting to be biased, we actually did a blind taste test between Busch, Hamms, Oly, and Pabst to find our ‘discount priced’ beer, and to my surprise, Busch won hands down! It’s an Atomic tradition.”

Atomic Liquors is currently open to the public Thursdays-Saturdays, from 4:00 p.m. – 8:00 a.m. (yes, overnight), but will be expandingtheir hours shortly. And speaking of expansion, plans are currently underway to add a beer garden, drive-in movie screen in the rear (on an adjacent roperty), as well as to create a new entryway with patio seating, among other improvements. “We plan to be the best bar in Las Vegas for locals and tourists alike,” explains Stonebarger.

And if the atmosphere, extensive and affordable drink menu, free parking (over 150 spaces), and other amenities don’t sway you—Atomic promises, among other comforts, $1 ATM fees, free wi-fi, and complimentary cell phone charging—perhaps the chance to save (or at least soothe) your soul will. You read that right, in the not-so-distant future, Atomic Liquors will even host “no-pressure, non-denomination church” Sundays, complete with condensed sermons followed by a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. History, parking, drink specials, and salvation. It’s just like their 1954 advertisement promised, “ATOMIC LIQUORS: Coolest Spot in Town.”

ATOMIC LIQUORS
Las Vegas’ Oldest Bar™
917 Fremont Street

Photo by Curtis Joe Walker courtesy of Atomic Liquors


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